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Artists & Gilders Decorative Studio Inc.

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Name of Finish
Glazing
Materials needed
How To
Name and Address
Link to Photo of Finish
Name of Finish
european wax finish
Materials needed
How To
Hi:
I don't know "how to" so Im contacting you.

I was called to a job site to replicate a finish done 10 years ago by two artisans. According to the homeowner, these two men created buckets of wax and colorants {lemon yellow} and trowel applied the mixture in several layers in a "Venitian Polish" effect. Upon researching encaustic finishes, I was led to your site. Does any one at the Ross studios have a clue as to how to replicate the finish, as well a repair a wall the carpenter put a hammer through? The wall has a very hard wax feel and look.



Thanks for your help
Ed Werfelman
Fine finishers of Westchester Inc.
e-mail: finefinishersEd@aol.com


















Name and Address
Edward Werfelman
76 Abbeville lane
White Plains, NY 10607

Link to Photo of Finish
Name of Finish
Frottage
Materials needed
Tools and Supplies you will need for this Project:
Oil semi-gloss paint, 1- light one for the base and 1-a darker shade for the glaze

Oil-based glazing liquid
Brush
Roller and paint tray
3" brush
Paint thinner
Roll or sheets of craft paper
Glaze Recipe
2 parts oil paint
2 parts oil-based glazing liquid
1 part paint thinner, 1 part Kerosin

How To
Frottage stems from the French frotter, which means "to rub". This finish looks best applied in rich dark colours over a lighter base coat.


1. BASE COAT: Apply two coats of the base colour and let dry 2 to 3 hours for water base, overnight for oil. (Oil or water-based can be used)

2. Mix the coloured glaze, and apply it to the wall in sections the size of the craft paper, if your using plastic sheeting you can actually to a whole wall at a time.

3. Immediately lay a sheet of craft paper over the wet glaze, and smooth it out with your hands. Then remove the paper. The sheets of craft paper can be re-used several times but be careful they don't get to saturated or you will start getting different effects, because it has a tendentic to remove more glaze when you start. That's what is nice about the plastic.

4. Roll more coloured glaze onto the next section, overlapping the glaze onto the edges of the previously glazed area, and repeat step 3.

5. Without stopping, repeat steps 3 and 4 until 100% of the wall is covered. If your using plastic you can get the cheap .04 mill stuff get a helper and cover the whole wall at once and work it.

6. Optional: once the paint is dry, apply a coat of semi-gloss clear coat to add to the richness of this effect.
Name and Address
Ross O'Neal
Name of Finish
Faux Finishing Marbling Tip
Materials needed
What you will need:




Ordinary stain blocking primer


Well worn sea sponge


Some Soft Rags


Palette- 3 small dishes will do


Container of water


Container for glaze


Flat lettering brush, fine pointed long haired brush and a small round brush


Wipe-out tool


Badger Blender


Satin or gloss acrylic varnish or polyurethane


Rubber gloves if you feel they are necessary


Glaze is made from artist acrylic's and water


Colors: For the base glaze we use:



6 parts titanium white
2 parts raw umber
2 parts ultramarine blue
dash of black



Red Glaze: Red oxide plus a little vermillion, burnt sienna chrome orange

Palette colors: white ,black, burnt umber raw umber, ultramarine blue

How To
Marble finishes are all the rage and actually, not that difficult to achieve. Marbling can be done on plates, gift boxes, plaques, furniture, trim, floors, but keep in mind it should be used in places and situations where we find real marble for the best effects. Here Ross shares his technique for Greek Rose Marble

How to do it:


1. Prime the surface of the item using primer.

2. Drag and dab the sponge over the surface to give the background texture. Add some of the palette colors to make some areas stronger.Smooth with
blender when completed. this will dry quick because it's water base.

3. Repeat the process with a darker mix of the colors. Apply more random so some of the 1st layer shows through. Let dry.

4. Mix the red oxide; a lttle burnt sienna, vermillion and chrome orange and a little water. Make enough for the entire project. paint over area,
leaving some areas uncovered, go back over other areas again to add more depth. With wipeout tool you can cut through glaze to expose base in some
areas.

5. Make a very transparent glaze of burnt umber and water. Sponge over red areas mainly this is to add texture to the red area. Now mix a darker
glaze of burnt umber and a little black.

6. Mix a opaque glaze of white plus a touch of black, ultramarine blue and raw umber, glaze should be a light gray-white color.Apply over entire
surface with the corner of the worn sponge lightly. Set aside for use later. With the long haired fine pointed brush, add light veining in raw umber,
make wavy breccia lines in all directions some crossing others.

7. Add white to lighten gray white glaze from above, with the pointed brush outline one side of most of the gray shapes to create a shadow and
add depth.

8. With the round brush outline some gray areas with white glaze with a touch of yellow ochre. With the fine pointed brush add veins in broken
stepped lines of various sizes across surfaceas seen on the sample. Once varnished the surface takes on the sheen of marble.


Tips for Veining

Variety is the key here with veining, give each vein its own character by changing their width and color depth . All this can be controlled with
the pressure and the color strenghth on the brush. Think about the marble you are reproducing as you work you want to capture the fragmented look
of the marble. Veins should be like small fragments they should tremble slightly. They should not be straight or look like crows feet or snake
tongues.
Name and Address
Ross O'Neal
Link to Photo of Finish
Name of Finish
Stone Block
Materials needed
Tools and Materials:

Paints: for base coat, a warm white flat latex paint;for stones, a warm white flat latex paint tinted with taupe and beige universal tints or artist's acrylics to achieve the stone color

Ladder, as needed
Graph paper
#1 pencil
Paint roller and pan
Retractable measuring tape
Chalk line
Metal yardstick
1/4-inch-wide painter's masking tape
Scissors
Razor blade or utility knife
Paint bucket and tray
Mixing sticks
3-inch-wide decorator brush
Wide broad knife
#6 artist's brush
Clean rags
Bucket of clean water
Gloves
How To
1) Determine the Size of the Blocks of Stone First, determine the size of your blocks of stone (usually rectangular twice wide as high but this can vary to suit your space). Remember to add mortar space between the blocks when figuring their size. Plan the total layout on graph paper, staggering the rows so that each block ends at the centers of those just above and below it.

2) Apply Base Coat Using a paint roller and pan, paint the wall with a base coat of warm white flat latex paint, and then allow it to dry thoroughly.

3) Draw Blocks onto Surface Start at a top corner of the wall, using your layout as a guide. Measure down from the ceiling to the point where the first two courses of block will meet, and lightly mark this point with a pencil. Do the same in the opposite corner. Using a chalk line, snap a guideline between the two marks, and lightly pencil (or chalk) in this horizontal line along the entire wall. Because most walls are not truly level, you'll have to make the blocks appear level with the ceiling, not the floor; any deviation, no matter how slight, will be more obvious at the ceiling line than the floor line. Using this first horizontal line as a reference, measure for and lightly pencil in the remaining horizontal lines; then define each block by drawing in the short vertical lines.

4) Create Mortar Lines To create the mortar lines, press narrow, 1/4-inch-wide painter's masking tape over the center of each marked line. Use a razor blade or utility knife to cut the vertical tapes, aligning them with the edges of the horizontal lines. The grid is now established

5) Paint the Stones Next, mix full-bodied flat latex paint with taupe and beige universal tints or artist's acrylics to the desired stone color, and pour a small amount into the paint tray. Seal the can, and set it aside to prevent spillage. Using a 3-inch-wide decorator brush, apply the paint. Pounce and twist the brush to create a stonelike texture. Vary the coloration from block to block by varying pressure on the brush.

6) Reveal Mortar LinesAllow the blocks to dry completely and then pull off the tape for the mortar lines by lifting the ends and pulling them toward you. You might be pleased with this look just as it is.However, for a more realistic representation, especially on exterior walls and interior ones that receive much sun, you should create shadow lines

7) Create Shadow Lines Decide on the sun's orientation shadow lines will fall either along the right and bottom, or the left and bottom sides of the stones. Take the darkest color mixed into the stone paint, and thin it with water. Then, letting the edge of a broad knife be your guide, paint the shadow lines along the bottom of each stone and along either its left or right side (as determined, above) using an artist's #6 brush. When these lines are fully dry, dilute full-bodied white paint and then paint the mortar lines around the blocks. Leave the shadow lines untouched except for clipping their bottom corners.
Name and Address
test finish
Link to Photo of Finish
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